By Bernhard Roetzel.

Among the many many myths surrounding the Viennese menswear shop Knize is the origin and historical past of its perfume ‘Knize Ten’. In reality, a number of myths. 

Germans and Austrians will let you know that Knize Ten was the primary males’s perfume in historical past. That is unlikely, given it was launched in 1925 and there have been many males’s fragrances available on the market at the moment. Penhaligon’s ‘Hammam Bouquet’, as an illustration, launched in 1872. It’s notable that Knize itself doesn’t repeat this story.

Nonetheless there’s a probability it was the primary perfume that was created to enrich the vary and company picture of a males’s clothing store. Given the variety of branded males’s perfumes which have been launched since, that isn’t insignificant. 

The fragrance was named ‘Ten” in reference to the very best rating in polo. There have additionally been subsequent editions, together with Knize Two.

Knize Ten has an uncommon, smoky leather-based scent with a little bit vanilla that’s fairly robust. It was one of many first leather-based scents ever created, solely crushed by Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, which got here out a 12 months earlier. James Dean, Humphrey Bogart and David Niven are mentioned to have worn it.

The bottle can be important. It was designed by the illustrious (and really elegant) Ernst Dryden. 

Dryden was born in Vienna in 1887. In 1910 he moved to Berlin and began working as a graphic designer and illustrator, earlier than founding his personal design studio again in Vienna. From 1926 to 1933 he lived primarily in Paris, and labored as a correspondent for the German trend journal Die Dame. 

He was Jewish, and moved to Hollywood in 1933 to work as a stylist within the movie trade (on the best way designing a clothes assortment for Saks in New York). Billy Wilder described Dryden as “essentially the most elegant man that’s ever lived”. Dryden died in 1938.

One other wrinkle within the story is that Knize doesn’t truly personal the rights to the fragrance. It has to purchase it from another person.

The precise historical past of the perfume is troublesome to hint, nevertheless. Allegedly the rights had been held by the Paris retailer of Knize, and had been misplaced when the department was closed in 1972. That is the story instructed in a e book about former purveyors to the Imperial courtroom (okay. u. okay. Hoflieferanten Wiens by János Kalmár and Mella Waldstein).

Right this moment a German firm, Knize Parfumeur, is the proprietor of the rights. I attempted to contact them for particulars of the historical past, however with out success. So I turned to the most effective fragrance retailers I do know – Drogerie Wittelsbach in Munich. 

Drogerie Wittelsbach was based in 1882. It has been owned by the Stadler household since then, and presently by Bernhard Stadler and his spouse. I in all probability visited first in 1992 and have since gone there each time I go to Munich. I’ve purchased shaving cleaning soap, pocket combs and Yardley’s Lavender Pomade there, and as soon as a bottle of Knize Ten.

Herr Stadler mentioned that Knize Ten “has its followers” however it’s extra of fall and winter perfume as a result of the leather-based be aware is fairly heavy. In summer season he sells much less of it and extra of Knize Forest.

Usefully, he did have a brochure from Knize Parfumeur, and this supplied an entire checklist in addition to a chronology of the perfume vary: 

• Knize Ten launched in 1925
• Woman Knize in 1938
• Knize Two in 1978
• Knize Sec in 1983
• Knize Forest in 1993
• Knize Ten Golden Version in 2000
• and Belle Epoque (the second girls version) in 2001

Most of these different fragrances are nonetheless accessible, at the very least on-line, however Knize Ten stays one of the best recognized.

In Germany and Austria right now it’s thought of very traditional and ‘previous cash’. The perfume may be very distinctive and as soon as you already know it you can not mistake it for one thing else. It nonetheless has a sure reputation amongst males who received to realize it within the Nineteen Eighties. 

Internationally it’s much less well-liked, but it surely nonetheless has its followers. The recognition is I believe due to its heritage and since it stays very wearable – masculine and suggestive of one other period, but not too uncommon. In reality many perfumes are like this, which is fascinating; they typically final higher than garments. 

Somewhat story about Billy Wilder’s enthusiasm for Knize Ten to complete with. He used to purchase it in a specific fragrance store in Hollywood; at some point he requested if Knize Ten offered properly. When he heard it didn’t – both to encourage the provision or get it whereas he might, we have no idea – he purchased the entire inventory himself.

For some individuals, their perfume is an integral a part of their character.

Knize Ten is offered on-line by the Knize shop and by a number of different on-line retailers. For bodily shops, it’s offered in Manufactum in Germany and Labour & Wait within the UK.  For extra on Dryden, attempt to pay money for the work Divinely Elegant by Anthony Lipman

Knize the store and its historical past – in addition to its relevance right now – was lined by Bernhard in his first article here. Pictures within the retailer by Rainer Schoditsch.