Duran Lantink offered his newest ready-to-wear assortment for Jean Paul Gaultier in a mirrored area that mirrored each angle. That introduced his evolving imaginative and prescient for the storied French model into sharper focus, with a pronounced emphasis on building, anatomical references, and a rising sense of wearability.
Lantink, who turned artistic director of the Puig-owned home in April 2025, has made a degree of exploring each the experimental and industrial sides of Jean Paul Gaultier. For spring, he described his inspiration as “discovering completely different personalities inside one character,” aiming to stability strict tailoring with sensual, free-spirited components. “Once you consider the Gaultier individual, it’s anyone who can put on strict tailoring but additionally be sensual and a little bit of a hippie,” Lantink stated.
The opening look, a pristine white coatdress with exaggerated shoulders and a sculpted lapel, set the tone for a group that pushed acquainted items out of form. Jackets with collars thrust ahead created uncommon necklines. A sharply outlined hourglass blazer revealed its jutting construction solely because the mannequin walked. Different jackets had massive porthole openings on the chest, exhibiting neo-cone bras, which refer again to the home’s earlier designs.
Lantink’s tailoring drew on a mixture of Western, Gothic, and folkloric references, together with tartan skirt fits with contrasting collars and floral motifs harking back to alpine traditions. Bells, impressed by a glove from the home’s 1989 archive, appeared as literal, jangling particulars on checked shirts and skirts. “I used to be impressed by a glove with tassels and bells that I discovered right here in a closet, and it was a group from 1989. I believed the sound was wonderful,” Lantink defined.
Whereas the gathering’s experimental edge remained intact, Lantink stated there’s extra wearability on this season, and that’s the course he needs to take the ready-to-wear. Even the fundamentals, low-rise denims, off-center buttoned and paired with backless halter tops, got here with a twist, styled with the home’s new split-toe sneakers.
Jean Paul Gaultier, which after the founder’s 2020 retirement wound down its ready-to-wear providing, is now step by step rebuilding its presence. Lantink’s strategy attracts from his expertise in each couture and pre-collections. That enables him to experiment with shapes earlier than translating them to extra accessible items. He stated that as he works on completely different collections, he’s studying how you can separate them whereas retaining them in the identical world.
This season additionally marked the growth of the home into footwear, a transfer Lantink described as a precedence. Footwear in a variety of colorways and iterations, from flats to heels to lace-ups, appeared all through the present, underlining the home’s new course. The ready-to-wear line is out there at 120 factors of sale and, since October 1, by means of a pop-up at Galeries Lafayette in Paris. The pop-up, situated on the second flooring subsequent to Courrèges, showcases a number of sculptural robes from the Fall/Winter 2026 present. Alix Morabito, chief merchandising officer at Galeries Lafayette, stated Lantink is taking Jean Paul Gaultier’s artistic strategy and transforming it for the present season.
The journal has additionally checked out Chanel’s Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection.
Sources
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