On this second installment of his bespoke journey over the previous 37 years, the creator of Gentleman tells us how he gave up on Savile Row, however sampled tailors in Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, Ukraine, Poland, Spain and Italy. 

By Bernhard Roetzel.

In Part 1 of this article I wrote about my first experiences with bespoke tailoring, and my adolescence on Savile Row. From 2003 on my enthusiasm for Savile Row and English tailoring dwindled, nonetheless, for a few causes. 

Considered one of them was that I acquired to know Italy higher. I began experimenting with a number of makers of top of the range RTW and MTM and was very pleased with the fits I acquired there. My favourites had been Belvest and d’Avenza.

The opposite was that Tobias Tailors closed in 2003, and I hardly visited England after that as a result of I did no extra England-related books. John Coggin additionally stopped doing trunk exhibits in Frankfurt as a result of the shoe store he used closed down. 

I didn’t order something from a tailor for a few years as a result of I didn’t want something, but in addition as a result of my nice old flame for bespoke died when Tobias Tailors closed. I nonetheless love bespoke tailoring, however by no means once more as a lot as I did within the first years with them. 

In Europe, I felt torn between the totally different worlds of tailoring that I found. I used to be typically tempted to order one thing once I favored the craftsman and the environment, however I at all times stopped myself on the final second as a result of I didn’t really feel like beginning another time with a brand new tailor.

In 2005, for instance, I visited Kathrin Emmer (above) in Berlin whereas I used to be there for the Congress of the World Federation of Grasp Tailors. Kathrin confirmed me her workroom and I favored her work. She had skilled in Munich and labored for Volkmar Arnulf, probably the most famend German bespoke tailor of the old generation.

I moved to Berlin in 2007 and visited Kathrin a few instances for a chat over a cup of espresso. In 2011 I used to be lastly able to order a jacket, however the cloth that I had picked wasn’t obtainable anymore (a worsted Alsport). A little bit later I got here again as a result of I now wished a swimsuit. It was a double-breasted comprised of a gray flannel with a little bit houndstooth sample.

I had a really exact I concept of what I wished: a Nineteen Thirties-inspired reduce with pleated trousers, wider within the leg than I had worn earlier than, no vents and a bit extra V-shaped. I confirmed Kathrin a few photographs and on the first becoming I noticed how nicely she had understood me and the way nicely she had constructed the sample. 

There have been no sleeves within the coat at that stage. On the subsequent becoming there was hardly something to right. I believe the sleeves had been a bit too lengthy however she may alter that from the shoulder, because the buttonholes had been open already.

A little bit later I had one other double-breasted swimsuit made based mostly on the primary one. I requested her to copy the primary one, simply with the coat a little bit nearer to the physique. I picked a light-grey wool with mohair in a medium weight for spring and summer time. The material was very good but it surely turned out to be too heavy – however that was my fault.

On the becoming of the second swimsuit I used to be pleasantly stunned that Kathrin actually had managed to copy the match of the primary swimsuit – a difficulty I had found in the past. It fitted a bit nearer to the physique however the look was very a lot the identical. She defined that she at all times measures the completed swimsuit and writes the measures in her e book.

After the primary two double-breasted fits Kathrin made two extra single-breasted ones for me. One was in darkish blue with a faint overcheck and one was a mid-grey glen test. The latter was speculated to be extra Italian and I gave her an Italian RTW swimsuit as a reference. 

She did nicely however nonetheless I learnt the lesson that it’s no good to ask tailors to emulate a mode from one other nation. The issue is, even when the fits suits nicely (because the one from Kathrin does) it is going to lack id. 

Because of this I additionally advise readers to get a swimsuit from a tailor who lives or was skilled within the nation you need (like James Whitfield who’s English and skilled at Anderson & Sheppard, however lives and works in Berlin).

In 2016 I made the acquaintance of the Viennese tailor Michel Possanner (above). A number of mates had beneficial him each time I had requested for tailors apart from the same old suspects. He invited me to talk at an occasion in his store and I seized the chance to order a blazer.

We selected a blue cloth from Minnis. We agreed on a double-breasted with a traditional button configuration. The primary becoming passed off a few weeks afterwards and the match was already superb. 

Michel unpicked the shoulder sleeve and pinned it following the contour of my determine. On the second becoming I can not keep in mind any points and the blazer was completed afterwards with none want for one more becoming.

Michel makes a really smooth coat with pure shoulders. He skilled at Knize and makes the same silhouette with a reasonably low notch. The size of the coat may be very traditional, much like the English style and the chest pocket is decrease than most tailors these days (which fits my style). 

In accordance with Michel his tailoring is softer than Knize’s but it surely does incorporate issues he has discovered there. For example the cuffs of the sleeves are made with a little bit of linen inside to provide them extra form.

Later I ordered a pair of cavalry twills and once more Michel did a superb job. Michel sticks to his personal model – he won’t ship something that he feels isn’t elegant or flattering. He does have an excellent style and sense of fashion, one thing that many tailors lack. 

Two years later I met Zdenek Hartl from Prague (above). He had skilled at one in all Prague’s most famed homes within the Nineteen Sixties, which had been established within the golden pre-war age of tailoring. After 1989 he opened his personal enterprise. For the reason that late Nineteen Nineties he has been coming to Vienna for trunkshows on the fabric service provider Jungmann & Neffe.

Mr Hartl has an enormous variety of clients in Vienna due to the worth he presents. He expenses a lot lower than the native homes, which could clarify why a lot of them look down their noses at him. I believe that he’s wonderful not least due to the massive expertise he has gained over many years of constructing for somewhat demanding clients.

Many purchasers present him outdated Knize fits that they had made prior to now, or present in second hand shops, and ask him to copy them. Others use him along with different tailors. I met one Brit who lives in London and Vienna; he stated he’s an Anderson & Sheppard buyer however has double-breasted fits made of their model by Mr Hartl whereas he’s in Vienna.

I used to be hesitant to attempt Mr Hartl due to the gap to Vienna however he invited me to return to Prague for a becoming. Prague is 5 hours by prepare for Berlin so I agreed (versus 9 hours to Vienna).

I had a really exact concept of the swimsuit I wished and I sketched it on a chunk of paper after I used to be measured within the becoming room at Jungmann & Neffe. I picked a heavy British houndstooth tweed from their cabinets.

I travelled to Prague and met Mr Hartl in his store in Verdunska road. Most Viennese clients have by no means been there and I had heard a few unusual tales a few dingy workroom someplace in Prague. 

What I discovered was a typical tailor’s store in a quiet residential space. Very tidy and good, similar to every other tailor’s store in Europe. The workroom is at the back of the constructing in a small construction within the yard: additionally very mild and tidy with about six totally employed tailors working there.

My becoming was ready for me on a gown dummy and it regarded promising. I wasn’t dissatisfied once I first tried on the trousers after which the jacket. Each had been spot on.

Mr Hartl prompt that he proceed straightaway to the completed swimsuit. Regardless of being somewhat euphoric after the becoming I attempted to utter my doubts in probably the most well mannered means doable. 

Mr Hartl has such an air of pleasant authority that I felt like a schoolboy asking an outdated instructor if he was positive about what he stated.

As a solution he led to the wall and pointed to {a photograph} that confirmed Arnold Schwarzenegger with Mr Hartl on the becoming of a sports activities jacket. In his damaged English Mr Hartl stated that he did one becoming for this buyer too as a result of Arnold Schwarzenegger didn’t keep lengthy sufficient in Prague for one more. This satisfied me, so I agreed.

We met a few weeks later in Dresden, midway between Berlin and Prague. We did the becoming within the foyer of a lodge. I used to be handed the swimsuit in a bag and I put it on within the lavatory. Even earlier than seeing myself within the mirror above the wash basin, I felt that the swimsuit was good.

Within the foyer I discovered a much bigger mirror and it confirmed my impression. The swimsuit fitted very nicely after just one becoming and it regarded precisely as I had envisioned it earlier than. The heavy tweed in all probability helped, however I’ve seen different fits on me comprised of heavy fabric which clearly confirmed points.

After that first profitable swimsuit I ordered 4 extra outfits and all had been superb. On the subsequent conferences I observed that Mr Hartl begins at zero each time. He doesn’t appear to make use of the earlier patterns or measurements. I’ve seen a video of him hanging the sample on the material instantly with out utilizing a paper sample as a stencil.

So for each new piece for the reason that first one we have now accomplished two fittings, even for the trousers. The standard of the making has at all times been wonderful. The 2 fittings had been at all times vital as a result of I had modified my weight between ordering and becoming. 

Normally Mr Hartl appears to want a barely shorter coat and narrower lapels, if the shopper doesn’t ask for one thing else.

The primary English bespoke swimsuit I ordered since 2003 was made by James Whitfield in Berlin (above). He got here to Berlin in 2012. He was employed by a German store referred to as Purwin & Radczun. They couldn’t discover a cutter that met their expectations in Germany in order that they employed James.

I noticed the fits he made there and I at all times favored the concept of a real Savile Row tailor working in Berlin. I by no means acquired to attempt James till he began his personal enterprise after leaving Purwin & Radczun.

James makes a swimsuit with an extended coat, pronounced shoulders and a excessive waist. As he can not depend on outworkers like his colleagues in London, he has skilled a tailor who works for him fulltime. 

I had discovered a chunk of jacketing within the Scabal warehouse and requested James to make a sportcoat for me. The size was a bit quick as a result of I had shared it with a pal however James managed to chop the jacket from it.

James did two fittings and the ensuing jacket was superb. When the jacket was made I used to be very skinny; once I put the burden on once more later James needed to let the jacket out on the facet seams to the max. The inlay was smaller than common as a result of the unique size of fabric was a bit quick.

I discovered from that have that I’d somewhat order cloth from a tailor. It’s a threat to purchase reduce lengths except you realize precisely how a lot is required. Tailors often need extra of a patterned fabric, for instance, so do take care to purchase sufficient.

I’ve stopped ordering at trunk exhibits of visiting tailors. It’s often too difficult and time-consuming to satisfy for the fittings. Pitti Uomo is a well-liked assembly place for fittings however I discover it’s nerve-racking for either side. Normally the fittings happen in a rush, typically the tailors can not focus totally or they lose the notes they take. 

Within the final seven years I’ve tried a few promising younger tailors from Center Europe, together with Tim Fain from Kiev (above) and Dawid Kukliński from Gdansk. Tim used to return to Berlin often earlier than the battle in Ukraine began and he made two superb fits for me. 

Dawid visits Berlin and Leipzig often. He has made a sports activities jacket for me from linen by Maison Hellard and a swimsuit manufactured from gray covert cloth by Holland & Sherry. Exterior Kathrin Emmer I’ve additionally tried different German tailors, for instance Detlev Diehm and Markus Schnurr (under, first and second respectively).

I met each Detlev and Markus a very long time in the past once I had had fits made by Tobias Tailors. Detlev was then the inventive director and designer of the Bavarian maker of handmade fits Regent, typically referred to as the ‘German Brioni’. He skilled as a tailor initially earlier than he studied design. He went again to his roots a few years in the past.

Markus skilled as a dressing up tailor, which isn’t unusual in Germany. He labored for Dietl in Munich, probably the most famend post-war tailor in Germany, after which began his personal enterprise in provincial southern Germany, the place he presents superb handwork and reducing.

Among the many southern European tailors, I’ve tried Joaquín Fernández Prats (above). I met him at Pitti Uomo. He was nonetheless working for the shirtmaker Mariano Langa in Madrid and his boss invited me to Madrid. I used to be enchanted by the environment of the old style store and I acquired measured by Joaquín. I got here again to Madrid for fittings twice. 

Joaquín cuts a really distinctive Spanish model, with a collar and lapel form which is extra French than Italian. I’ve at all times admired the model of stylish Spanish gentleman and the fits made by tailors from their nation, so I used to be to do that.

On the first becoming the swimsuit nonetheless confirmed traces of my model however on the second becoming extra of Langa’s and Joaquín’s home model emerged. The completed swimsuit was 100% Spanish, except the trousers. They had been reduce very vast within the leg with ahead pleats, however even then that they had a Spanish accent as a result of I adopted Joaquín’s solutions of a large waistband and belt that fastens on the facet.

The one longer-lasting relationship I’ve had with a tailor sprung from an opportunity encounter. I met Massimo Pasinato in Milan at an occasion within the VBC showroom in 2018. Francesco Barberis Canonico made the introduction and the subsequent morning Massimo took my measurements for a three-piece swimsuit. I had chosen a medium weight dark-grey high-twist cloth from VBC.

We met for 2 fittings in Germany. The primary was nicely reduce and I didn’t detect something to enhance at first sight. Massimo then took off the collar and unpicked the shoulder seam. He lifted the left entrance half just a bit bit with the intention to smoothen out the entrance.

The second passed off a few weeks later. I don’t keep in mind the way it went, in all probability as a result of the whole lot was effective. The usual of workmanship was wonderful. I wore that swimsuit at Pitti on the cocktail hosted by VBC at Liverano’s store. Once I bumped into Anda Rowland she complimented me on the swimsuit. Even when I detected a level of well mannered flattery the response felt sincere.

I wished to order extra from Massimo and despatched him one other swimsuit size however Covid stopped all progress. We met a few instances after the pandemic however he by no means discovered the time to take new measurements. 

Lastly, it occurred in September 2025 in Vienna once we met at a trunkshow. We did the primary becoming in Milano a month later.

The material is a light-grey Prince of Wales with a crimson overcheck from Draper’s. Massimo someway managed to provide the swimsuit an English air. We had agreed on slanted pockets with flaps and a ticket pocket, trousers with ahead pleats and side-adjusters and buttons for braces. 

Scripting this piece and its predecessor has introduced again many recollections of bespoke and brought about me to consider the errors I’ve made. The world was very totally different once I ordered my first fits as a result of there have been no sensible telephones, no social media, no Instagram.

The web has taken away lots of the magic of bespoke, but it surely offers the novice lots of info. Sadly, info can not substitute data or expertise. So all people simply has to order his first swimsuit from a tailor, make proper or fallacious selections after which study from the outcomes. 

Ideally, the tailor will probably be expert and skilled and based mostly not too distant. This can assist with correcting the errors. The shopper must also know precisely what he needs however go away the tailor sufficient freedom. In any other case he would possibly choke the passion.

All the time keep in mind, a tailor isn’t a magician. Don’t count on an excessive amount of; there isn’t any good swimsuit. Communication is crucial: discover out what you need and let the tailor realize it. It’s your swimsuit so you could prefer it and really feel good carrying it. Lastly, in case you discover a tailor who makes this swimsuit, keep on with him!

Which tailor would I exploit in the present day? Properly, the tailors above are all ones I’d use once more as a result of I used to be pleased with the consequence. However what number of instances can we like a meal in restaurant and but by no means return?

The tailors that I’ve been most pleased with judging by the variety of repeat orders are Zdenek Hartl from Prague, Kathrin Emmer from Potsdam, Massimo Pasinato from Vicenza and Dawid Kukliński (under) from Gdansk.

Mr Hartl presents the most effective worth for cash, this is a vital issue. However he’s additionally extraordinarily expert and I like his model. And he’s a really good particular person though verbal alternate is restricted.

Kathrin Emmer is closest to my house of all, it is solely a few 90 minutes drive to see her. She is the one that offers the smallest quantity of enter concerning model however she is extraordinarily versed at reducing and she will exacly replicate the fits she makes.

Massimo Pasinato has just lately reached one other stage in his reducing, at the very least in my statement. His handwork was at all times wonderful, however he appears extra mature and relaxed now. He’s very dependable and constant which I discover crucial.

Dawid Kukliński makes a really good swimsuit, very center European within the sense of a quiet and subdued class. He admires Savile Row model greater than most youthful tailors from Center Europe however he would not attempt to copy it. His costs are enticing and he involves Berlin regularly.

If I had to decide on one in all them as my solely tailor it will in all probability be Mr Hartl.

Half 1 of Bernhard’s journey, speaking about utilizing an English and German bespoke tailor within the Eighties and Nineteen Nineties, could be discovered here. For extra on Bernhard’s writing, particularly on outlets and tailors to go to in central Europe, see his writing extra typically here.